• Lunar eclipses and sunsets in the Louisiades

    Because sometimes pictures speak louder than words..

    Hazard and HummockDSC01979-resized




    We watched this lunar eclipse from the deck of Confederate anchored in the peaceful Conflict group at Itamarina island, stars sparkling around the moon. We think the moon was covered by the earth for about 6 hours…


  • Landfall Louisiades

    After 4 days at sea we caught our first glimpse of Papua New Guinea at 10am this morning. Exciting times ahead.

    Highlights of the passage
    * A spectacular light show made by dolphins jumping through phosphorescence. Magic.
    * Hearing the election results via SSB radio – good to still feel a bit connected to the outside world!
    * Picking up hitchhikers (two birds who decided Confederate looked like nice digs for the night. They stayed clinging onto the deck for about 8 hours).

    * Aforementioned hitchhikers were not house-trained and decided to shit the night away, all over the boat. It smelt like a pet shop until it rained the next day.

    Looking forward to some kitesurfing and village life in the Louisiades! We have brought a whole lot of supplies for trading recommended to us by friends aboard Sikkim who were here earlier in the year – so hopefully we get a good welcome. More updates from PNG to come.

    Update from Hoba Bay – 11 deg 09.2’ S, 152 deg 46.7’ E.

  • I’m sorry Joselwyn

    He sat cross-legged on the grass surrounded by his friends. Trees towered above—the canvas behind him a vibrant forest. He talked in a hushed voice. Many things were discussed. One of them was the rising sea level in his village. He’s 41 and has had time to make his own observations. He talked about how they needed to get better, to try to educate the kids about pollution.

    These same kids carve their own surfboards and spend hours paddling canoes made from dugout trees.

    These same kids shape bows and arrows, taking them into the forest to shoot pigeons.

    These same kids primarily eat boiled plantain banana and sweet potato sourced from their garden.

    The village of 400 people has one miniscule shop stocked with cooking oil, rice, and a few other miscellaneous items. Their houses have no paint. They are made from coconut fronds and materials from the adjacent forest. Each family has their own garden. Occasionally they open a tin, or a plastic package and if they bury it, it rusts away and infiltrates their water source. For Joselwyn this is the pollution they need to eradicate. Also they need to minimise the fires they use to cook their food. They must work hard so that the sea doesn’t continue to rise. So they don’t have to leave behind the place they have dwelled for many generations.

    But could they really do better, and would it make a difference?

    To Joselwyn I say—I am more to blame than you are, for the sea that rises by your village. I’m sorry Joselwyn. I’m so sorry.



  • Marau Sound, Solomon Islands

    Only one word to describe this place. Idyllic. We spent an amazing couple of days with the dingy, a fishing line, and the mask and snorkels. At the southern entrance to the sound we found amazing clear snorkeling on some of the reef drop offs. The largest, most plentiful and varied reef fish we’ve ever seen. Even within the sound black tip reef sharks cruised over endless coral gardens.









    We stopped at the eastern head of the sound to watch a pod of dolphins teaching their young uns how to swim. They brought their flipper out of the water but forgot to stop flipping through the air. Pretty cute watching them splash down on top of the water awkwardly. Some of the bigger dolphins cruised up to the dingy and rode the bow wake for a while, obviously checking us out and protecting the little guys. Then the babies started practicing their aerials. Definitely an ‘I feel lucky to be alive’ moment. Dolphins always seem like they’re having a whale of a time, or I guess a dolphin of a time? Waaa didn’t take the camera that day.

    And a few more sailing into Honiara. An easy overnight moonlit passage from Marau Sound.




  • Santa Ana, Makira Province, Solomon Islands

    Sailing to Marau

    Sailing to Marau

    Boys coming to give us coconut

    Boys coming to give us coconut

    Paddle board splashers

    Paddle board splashers

    Frequent visitors

    Frequent visitors



    Kustom house

    Kustom house

    Village soccor

    Village soccor

    Confederate anchored

    Confederate anchored


    We sailed from Santa Cruz to Santa Ana, a distance of 240 miles. The trip was super pleasant, with 10 knots behind us. The island of Santa Ana is a good one for a solid walk ashore, we spent a couple of hours walking to the other side of the island and back, visiting a traditional kastom house which housed carvings that had been there for hundreds of years.

    One of the main carvings we saw was of a half man, half shark. One of the legends of the Solomons tells the story of two brothers who fought to the death. The villagers took off after the older brother and he waded into a rock pool and was later seen with a sharks head and a man’s body, forever banished from the village as his punishment.