• Savusavu and Sevusevu

    In Savusavu we attended Curlys infamous seminar with a few new friends. Curly very thoroughly informed us of the etiquette for Sevusevu:

    In Fiji when you anchor off a village you should go ashore, make yourself known to the chief and he will welcome you to the village. The catch is he will only welcome you to the village if you come bearing a 1/3-1/2 kilo package of Yaqona, aka Kava. This needs to be appropriately bundled in newspaper (which is apparently read from front to back) and the long twirly sticks of Yaqona are tied together with a piece of ribbon. This tradition goes for Fijians and foreigners alike, and we found it a really nice way to experience the culture. Once the ceremony is finished you are part of the village and are allowed to walk through it, fish, swim, etc. Here’s a picture of the liquor cabinet on Confederate stocked with Kava and ready for action.

    Yaqona

    In Savusavu we caught up with a few boats we met in Tonga – Celtic castle and Toodles. We are loving the somewhat transient community we find ourselves in, and the instant respect for anyone we meet knowing that they have crossed an ocean to get where they are.  All the moments we are sharing with people along the way are really special. We spent about a week with Kate and Gary (a fellow Kiwi couple) with some awesome convos over rum, fish, fiji golds, and a random yet fantastic meal in the thriving metropolis that is labassa.

    Drinks Savusavu

    Tis a good chance to thnk everyone we’ve met so far for the good times and community spirity. Big shout outs to Trish and Dave off Halcyon 2 and Geoff and Sharon off Silhouette who we left behind in Tonga but loved spending time with you guys.

  • Arriving in Fiji

    We left Tonga to a pod of whales bidding us farewell, and arrived in Fiji to a pod of dolphins playing in the surf around us. No pictures – unfortunately we were a bit too excited of a) arriving in Fiji and b) being surrounded by jumping dolphins. We checked into Savusavu after the 4 day trip feeling exhausted but at the same time invigorated. A trip out on the big blue can do that to you – part of you is so excited to see land, the other part of you wants to keep going to Vanuatu or wherever really. Here’s a few pictures of Savusavu in all it’s glory.

    Confederate arriving Savusavu on a bit of an overcast day. Extreme excitement levels

    Confederate arriving Savusavu on a bit of an overcast day. Extreme excitement levels

    The next morning beautiful

    The next morning beautiful

    Savusavu

    Pretty chuffed to be in Fiji

    Pretty chuffed to be in Fiji

  • Tonga to Fiji – Day 2

    An ocean passage is made up of a series of highs and lows. One day you are cruising in a gentle breeze, under moonlight, with whales spouting around you. The next you are in strong winds and picking the curry, that should have been a well deserved dinner, off the carpet. Confederate now smells like salt and curry leftovers. Good good.

  • Sailing Tonga to Fiji

    Can you imagine? I’m looking out at the horizon, the sky is black, but littered with stars ablaze. The wind is gentle and we’re literally drifting through the night air. Suddenly I think I see a fire in the distance but we are already well offshore. The fire grows until it forms a huge orange circle in the sky and slowly turns into a more familiar full moon. This was one of the most amazing natural experiences I’ve ever had. To see the full moon rise over ocean near the equator is spectacular.

    Just when I was thinking it couldn’t get any better than this a pod of humpback whales appeared around us. I couldn’t see them but I could hear the water spouting from their blow holes under the moonlight. I woke Robin up to confirm I wasn’t dreaming, and thankfully they surfaced again minutes later. Special.

  • Kitesurfing in Tonga

    To be honest, in terms of kiting Tonga was a pleasant little surprise. We were there mid-May until the end of July and found enough spots to keep us throughly entertained. We joined the Island Cruising Association Rally (sailing from NZ to Tonga) and finished up at a place called Pangaimotu Island (aka Big Mamas). Big mams is named after a larger than life Tongan lady who not only lives up to her name but looks after yachties like they are her family. This island also became our first Pacific kite surfing spot. Here is a quick summary about kiting in Tonga.

    Pangaimotu Island

    As this island is a mere 10 minute boat trip from Nukualofa it isn’t as pristine as some of the other spots we have experienced. In saying this it is easily accessible and the fish life around the reef and wrecks is still fantastic. You could set up kites along the beach from Big mamas. We used a 12m kite as the wind was just pushing 15 knots. Contact us directly (http://windsquirrel.com/category/about-us/) for more details.

    Ha’apai Group

    Uoleva would be the place to go here, however because I was doing an assignment while we were in the Ha’apais we never got to see this spot in all its glory.

    Nuku

    Nuku is a wee island in the middle of the Vavau group, not far from the main town of Neiafu. While this spot was gusty if the wind crept too far around to the E, in a S-SE it was a beautiful set up and we had some great days here.

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    Kitesurfing Nuku

    KenutuThe absolute pick of Tonga. Pristine sand bank, incredible anchorage, edge of the earth feeling, and snorkeling and waves nearby. Good in lots of different wind directions. We kited here for about two weeks. The winds followed a distinct pattern in June and July where it would be windy for a week, then nothing for a few days. Apparently September is the best month but by that time we were already in Fiji.

    Kitesurfing near Kenutu

  • Crab

    Bella this is for you! The extreme potential of the go pro, our best footage from Tonga. Haha. But we’re getting better and aided by a screen which has helped us avoid catching footage of sky and horizon whilst a gigantic whale cruises past out of view. xx

    thecrab from Anna Cleal on Vimeo.

     

  • Kenutu Island – Number 1 Anchorage in Vavau

    One our favourite anchorages in Tonga is Kenutu. This island on the more remote Eastern side of the Vavau group has an incredible isolated “edge of the world” feeling. There’s been a few spots like this around Tonga but note others with an incredible sandbank for kitesurfing a short dingy ride away. Here are some pictures taken from the top of the mast as we weaved our way through coral reefs. Oh yeah and on the outside of the reef is where I snorekelled with my first tiger shark. Thankfully it was catching some zzz’s on the sandy bottom of the lagoon. While these incredible moments are what we are loving about his trip I didn’t feel like I needed to stick around until it woke up. In fact Robin said he’d never seen me swim so fast back to the dingy. Congrats Kenutu for being our #1 spot in the Vava’u group.

    KenutuIsland_Tonga

    Anchoring_Kenutu

    Sandbank_Kenutu

     

  • Kelefesia Island – Our favourite Anchorage in the Ha’apai Group, Tonga

    Sometimes pictures speak louder than words. This was a hard place to get into. Waves were breaking on reefs dotted outside the anchorage. I was up the mast guiding dad and Robin through the maze of reefs and telling them where I could see waves breaking. The reward was this…

    Kelefesia Island

     

  • The passage is over

    It’s a surreal feeling stepping onto dry land after being at sea for 11 days. In actual fact I could have kept going with the stress free, internet free, and equally shower free life, crazy as it may sound. I haven’t had very many times in my life where I have been subject to less information. By this I mean you go every day looking out at the ocean seeing nothing else. Occasionally you might see a rainbow or a really spectacular sunrise and it becomes the highlight of your day. You might catch a fish, and that becomes the highlight of your day. Or you have a really good yarn to the people you are sharing the journey with and that becomes the highlight of your day. The definition of simplicity. At times like this I want to keep going, to throw my computer off the boat, keep only tow or three favourite books, my guitar and pick up all my loved ones. Alas not everyone wants to sail the world, and for that reason alone I will always be pulled back to reality, and probably at the end of the day life in the city of Auckies, NZ. But while you’re out there, eternity is close, the sun rises and the sun falls, the birds fly and the fish jump. the wind breezes and the waves roll. The rhythm of life continues as it has for many years.

    Rainbow on passage

    Mahi mahi

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  • Minerva Reef

    The bluest sea I have ever seen. 300ish nautical miles from any sign of land. Pristine. Perfect. Without humans. Except for a bunch of yachties on a Pacific Island Odyssey. I’m glad to be on an adventure. Life should be an adventure. I’m sure of it, or maybe I read too much Enid Blyton when I was younger.

    Minerva Reef